Vulkathunha- Gammon Ranges Walks

The post describes walks in remote Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges, which are situated in Northern Flinders Ranges.

The Gammon Ranges have been shaped by geological processes over hundred millions of years. There is plenty interest for geologists and bushwalkers, due to its rugged, arid, ancient area of a stunning beauty.

The walks vary from scrambling over boulders in creek beds, climbing Mt. Warren Hastings for panoramic views, walking through dramatic rock formations and beautiful gorges. You will encounter springs, waterholes, old mines and huts, numerous sites of geological significance.

Even this area is more arid, there is abundant vegetation, from giant river red gums, Acacia species, Eremophila, Australian hop bush, Curlee Mallee and Sturt desert pea.

Yellow footed rock wallabies, Kangaroos, Bearded Dragon, Wrens have been spotted on our tracks.

The local Aboriginal people are Adnyamathanha, who currently live at Nepabunna. The aboriginal name for Gammon Ranges is Arkaroo, the name of legendary snake.

Access

We set camp at Balcanoona Shearers’ Quarters, which is 700 km north of Adelaide. You can reach Balcanoona from Copley (110km to the west) or Blinman (135km). The road from Blinman to Balcanoona was in better condition and more scenic.

Fuel is available at Hawker, Copley, Leigh Creek or Arkaroola. Arkaroola is 33 km from Balcanoona to the north.

Balcanoona Shearers’ quarters is a large stone building adjacent to park headquarters, basic but comfortable. It has 8 rooms with 4 x queen size beds and 4x 2 beds. You need to bring sleeping equipment. There is another room which is the Managers Quarters.

Facilities are 4 toilets and showers, large well equipped kitchen, large common room, electricity, laundry with washing machine, barbeque area.

There is no mobile phone or email coverage at Balcanoona. There is a free public phone.

Information about Balcanoona Shearers’ Quarters can be found at:https://flindersandoutback.com.au/listings/accommodation/balcanoona-shearers-quarters/

The post describes 7 walks which have been done during our stay. Leaflets with the map and description of the walk can be found at Balcanoona, Arkaroola and at the trailhead of the walk. The walks are well signed and described.

Italowie Hike

Italowie is Adnyamathanha Aboriginal word meaning “water in the hole”.

From the Italowie Gap Trailhead, the walk follows Italowie creek, through the tillite walls of the Balcanoona Range. Walking over the dry creek bed lined with red gums and tea trees, crossing the creek few times you reach the junction with Mt. McKinley springs track. Turn left to walk to beautiful Italowie Gorge. Upstream you find a pool at the bottom of dramatic steep Gorge, which can’t be traversed.

Return few hundred meters and go around the hill to explore the gorge from the opposite site.

During the walk you pass sites of geological significance, Paralana Fault, Bolla Bollana Tillite,Three Formations of dolomite, dark tillite and quartzite, Ironstone.

In this area, during 1930s Depression, RM Williams set up camp and made leather saddles and boots for pastoralists. His business is famous now throughout the world.

Oppaminda-Nudlamutana Hike

The walk starts at Arkaroola Village Trailhead. Follow the road past the campground. Reaching checkpoint N2, continue on Oppaminda Trail. The track is cut through Skillogalee Dolomite and runs along the boundary between, Arkaroola and Gammon Ranges.

Reaching checkpoint N3 near the fence, which dates since Arkaroola boundary was fixed, turn right. You head now to Mount Warren Hastings summit N5, which provides 360 degrees views over the Gammon Ranges.

Head to checkpoint N4 which is below to summit, follow the trail down to the junction with Oodnaminta-Nudlamutana track, unused vehicle track. The walk will be tedious up and down the track. After passing Nudlamutana Hut, a solid stone structure, you will reach the junction with Arkaroola Road.

Veer right to heat to Munyallina trailhead the end of walk. On this last section look for the site of the closed Wooltana bat cave, from where the solidified bats droppings guano, was mined to be used as fertiliser.

This is a linear track of 15.2 km with an elevation of 263 m. You need cars at each trail head.

Weetootla Hike

Weetootla Camp trailhead is 7.1 km from Balcanoona. Most of walking will be near creek banks of Balcanoona Creek. Weetootla Gorge cuts through Balcanoona Range compose of tillite. Dark red cliffs and tillite boulders are well displayed at Hells Gate.

At junction of Balcanoona and Wortupa creek, checkpoint B2 turn right following Wortupa Creek to checkpoint M1 near Weetootla Spring.

Continue on the Monarch Mine trail, which takes you through steep hill past the old mine, checkpoint M3.

The Monarch Mine operated from 1906 to 1908 when 12 tons of copper ore were extracted. The walk continues downhill to the junction of Balcanoona Creek to Grindell Hut road, checkpoint B5.

Take a short detour to Grindell Hut to find the sad story that is haunting the old hut which is behind the new Grindell Hut.

The one room stone hut was the home of John Grindell. John Grindell in 1918,wrongly suspected that his son- in -low, George Snell, stole his cattle. He shot George and cremated his body. John’s crime was discovered and was convicted of murder.

Return to checkpoint B5, follow the track to checkpoint B2 to close the circuit. Return on the same route to Weetootla trailhead.

Loch Ness Well to Bunyip Chiasm Hike

This is a spectacular walk in Gammon Ranges. Drive from Grindle Hut to Loch Ness Well from where you start the walk. From Loch Ness Well walk along the creek. After 1 km you arrive to a fork in the creek, take the west one the smaller from both two. After 2 km from the Well, the creek enters a gorge and the scenery becomes spectacular.

After another 2 km. you reach a narrow chiasm which is the entry to a grander section to the Bunyip Chiasm. The entry has a conveniently placed log to aid climbing to enter through the narrow chiasm.

Due to wet weather, we did not climb over the slippery log, but we admired the great sight, where the chiasm narrows right down and disappears in the distance.

Acacia Ridge Hike

Acacia Ridge is of Blue Mine Conglomerate, one of the oldest sediments of the Adelaide Geosyncline. The ridge walk provides you with panoramic views as far as Lake Frome. Also on display are seven species of Acacia, delicate pink flowered Fringe-myrtle and Green Fuchsia bush.

The walk as described in leaflet, is 5.6 km along the ridge starting at Arkaroola Station Trailhead CP A2 to Arkaroola Village trailhead A1. From checkpoint A3 there is a short walk of 200 m to the summit.

The recorded GPS track shows a loop walk of 12 km. I do not advise to walk the loop as there is an unmarked section through the bush, where you can easily get lost if you don’t know the direction you are going.

The best way is to arrange a lift through Arkaroola management to be dropped at the Arkaroola Station trailhead A2

Bararrana Hike

The 13 km walk was done clockwise and does not follow strictly the walk described in leaflet. This walk had an abundant display of beautiful Sturt Desert Pea.

You can start the walk at Welcome Mine trailhead and car park. At Welcome mine was extracted high grade copper ore in 1860 which was send to Port Augusta and than shipped in Wales.

The walk follows an old vehicle track, enters a little gorge at checkpoint B6, creek crossing. After rain Bararrana Waterhole extends to this point.

Follow along Arkaroola creek to reach Stubbs Waterhole.

Stubbs Waterhole, with the still water reflects the green foliage of gum trees and blue sky. Notice the quartzite erratics, large water rounded pebbles, in the tillite rock walls. Return via Welcome pound to the Welcome mine.

Mawson-Spriggina Hike

Mawson-Spriggina is a 8 Km circuit that starts at Arkaroola Village.

Passing the motel units, following the trail markers, the walk heads west along Mawson Valley. Soon you will reach the first geosite, rocks of the Oppaminda Formation with dolomitic soil. Curlee Mallee eucalyptus will grow here, in the soft dolomitic soil.

Geosite 2 Wortupa Quartzite is close to geosite 3 Blue Mine Conglomerate. The walk is above creek for most part. The plug pegmatite, granitic rock Sitting Bull, can be seen in the distance. The name was given by geologist and explorer Douglas Mawson.

Soon you will approach The Pinnacles, another granitic intrusion formation.

Geosite 5 Breccia surrounding The Pinnacles and Geosite 6 is Skillogallee Dolomite with shiny marble.

The track continues uphill with views from the ridge down into a valley floor of a landscape model of Spriggina, with fossilised segmented flatworms.

At start of the Spriggina Ridge, there are two astronomical observatories domes. Arkaroola skies are exceptionally dark due to its distance from any town and lack of pollution. You can book a tour in the village.

Continue downhill cross the camp ground and follow the main road to the village

Griselda Hill Hike

Griselda Hill is situated a few hundred meters from Arkaroola Village. The hill was named after the second wife of Reg Sprigg. The family bought the pastoral lease of Arkaroola with 7000 sheep.

The trail begins in Arkaroola village out of front of the Mining Museum. Follow Arkaroola Road and turn right onto a rocky dirt track. It is a steep climb with a rocky scramble to the top, where you are rewarded with 360 degrees views.

The track is 1.3 km with 100 meters ascent and takes about 1.5 hours.

Other walks in Flinders are described at : https://aussietrailwalker.com/walks-from-quorn/